Work as if you live in the early days of a better nation
A generous outcrop of granite with enough to occupy a most weekend climbers for a season. The crag is south facing. Warm in the afternoons and on summer evenings. Due to surrounding hills leaving many of the non-overhanging routes that would be classics hard to recommend except after lengthy periods of exceptional weather. Routes are described left to right following the path of the main approach route.
Last Minutes, Very Difficult, 60 meters
Commonly climbed in two pitches. Start at the blocky steps on the far left of the crag and ascend on the gentle incline smearing until a belay ledge is reached. After continue up easy ground to the V shaped cracks, which provide ample protection for the nervous. Take the leftwards line towards the top avoiding the roof.
Variation: HVS. Take the rightwards crack through the short roof and onto the top. Except significantly greater difficulty with infrequent and poor opportunities to place gear.
The Morning Line, Ungraded Project. 60 meters
A blank expanse of granite which was started with great difficulty before being abandoned after numerous ground up attempts. Unpleasant. Committing. The consensus on this open project is that the hardest moves are closer to the ground but what little protection offered gradually thins out until all but disappearing on the second pitch. The boulder project to start the route has been graded at V8.
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